 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Search
|
| |
 |
|
 |
|
| |
12/29/04
Worked
on HS Rear Spar - "Broke" the edges
of the rear spar support bars (HS609PP) as per the
plans.
I laid the support bars in the rear spars (HS603PP)
and lined up the holes and it was obvious I needed
to remove
some material to get them to lay flat in the rear spars.
I used my Vixen file to round the edges on the support
bars closest to the flanges. The best way to check
they lay flat in the spars is to cleco the bars to
only one of the spars at a time
and
look
to
see
if
the support bars are flat against the spars. In the
picture the spars are on the left and the support bars
are are on the right.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
12/29/04
Worked
on HS Rear Spar - Rounded the ends of HS609PP
per the plan drawing. A circle template comes in handy
to mark the work so you have guide lines for removing
the material. I used my 1" belt sander to remove
the material and it worked great, but it takes it off
fast!
I got some medium density fiber board from Home Depot
to use under the work and protect my workbench when match
drilling holes. It is cheap and is smooth like glass.
The nice thing about MDF is it does not pull up under
the work when drilled through like particle board does.
The holes are as clean
as a whistle after drilling. Try it...you'll like it!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12/29/04
Worked
on HS Rear Spar - Match
drilled HS609PP to HS603PP with a #30 drill bit.
Enlarged the holes that attach HS708 to the rear
spar assembly using a #19 drill bit. Clecoed HS412PP
and HS413PP to HS609PP and match drilled the holes
to #30.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
